Runway Makeup: Rag & Bone Fall 2012



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“When you have a brand with a signature feeling, you kind of just go with it,” Redken creative consultant Guido Palau said backstage at Rag & Bone, referencing designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s signature style. And so, as she has in nearly every season past, the downtown cool girl reared her languid, texturized head of hair yet again. There were “Patti Smith goes to India” references being bandied about as well, but not in any kind of literal way. “She’s a traveler but she’s still rock ‘n’ roll,” Palau clarified, explaining why strands were a little bit more “dread-y” than usual thanks to Redken’s Full Frame 07 Protective Volumizing Mousse, which was slathered onto wet strands. Palau then added its Rough Paste 12 Working Material paste once the hair was dry. “It defines the texture,” he said of the sculpting product, as he set hair in twists to allow for movement.

The India component was actually Revlon artistic director Gucci Westman’s idea. “The boys were inspired by the jump in severe poverty and wealth [there],” Westman explained, which led her directly to that classic Indian beauty staple enjoyed by women of all income brackets: kohl eye liner. “I used three different eyeliners—a gel, a kohl pencil, and a liquid,” Westman said of her application technique, which relied heavily on Revlon Crème Gel Liner in Black, its Luxurious Color Eye Liner in Black, and its Liquid Liner in Blackest Black. For a slight change of pace, the face painter opted to trace the lower lid only, smudging as she went so it looked rough, “like decay.” Skin was kept “porcelain-y” thanks to a precise layering effort of a blend of skin correctors and luminizers, including the highlighter from Westman’s limited-edition shadow palette for fall in Midnight Express. To ensure that the effect was “pure and angelic,” she misted models with water as they hit the runway for an instant dewy look.

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How to Do Fake Freckles at Home



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For most fashion week beauty trends, it's just a matter of buying a new lipstick or flicking out your liner but this season there's one trend that requires a bit more patience and a bit of skill. Fake freckles have been popping up on the runways and in editorials for the past few seasons but this season everyone from Rag & Bone to Antonio Berardi was penciling on subtle freckles for a fresh, daytime look.

 

 

There are a few ways to get fake freckles at home. The most difficult is using a self-tanner. If you're already a regular user of self-tanner and feel confident, try using a very small brush to apply a layer of freckles on your already tanned face. As you can imagine, this method has a huge margin for error and the tone of the product also comes into play.

The best and easiest way to get fake freckles is by using an eyeliner or eyebrow pencil. One benefit of using a brow pencil is that they are often more ashy tones rather than red based browns. You want your freckles to look as natural as possible so opt for two shades that you can layer for a plausible face of freckles. First, take a taupe pencil and dot around the center of your face. It's important to remember that natural freckles aren't even and the quickest way to draw attention to your fake freckles is by accidentally making them perfectly spaced and symmetrical. Next, take a darker ash brown and apply a second layer. At this point, the freckles will still look very obvious so you have to soften them up. Either pat the area with your fingertips until the spots are softened or take a clean eyeshadow blending brush and buff over the spots. Finish with a setting spray or powder for a lasting finish.

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Runway Makeup: Rag & Bone Spring 2013

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“Their girl, she doesn’t do a lot with her hair,” Guido Palau said backstage of David Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s Rag & Bone woman who, truth be told, typically favors a naturally languid, bed-head look. For Spring, the story wasn’t really that different. “It’s masculine/feminine, wet/dry, nineties minimalism,” Palau explained of the slicked-back in the front, rough-dried in the back hair he conceived with the designers. A dual texture was key to the look, which the Redken creative consultant prepped with its Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam Mousse, adding a finger-combed bend with Sultra’s The Bombshell oval curling iron before coating front panels with Redken’s Hardwear 16 Super Strong Sculpting Gel.

Makeup artist Gucci Westman kept things dually natural with “raw but beautiful” skin and an “androgynous” brow. Road-testing Revlon’s forthcoming PhotoReady BB Cream for a breathable application of light, complexion-enhancing coverage, the Revlon global artistic director dabbed her new-for-Spring Baby Stick in Pink Passion, a multitasking sheer pigment, onto models’ cheeks for a barely perceptible flush. Eyes were lined with its ColorStay Eyeliner in Brown before getting a few slicks of Grow Luscious Mascara just on the top lashes, after which Westman focused her attention on arches, which were filled in and brushed up with Revlon’s Brow Fantasy pencils. Mouths were slightly stained and then moisturized with Dr. Lipp’s Original Nipple Balm for Lips.

Westman asked one specific thing of her team as the un-air-conditioned backstage area at the 34th Street post office began to swelter: “No highlights or shimmery stuff.” The objective, she explained, was to get to the heart of old black-and-white photographs of Linda and Christy. “I didn’t want it to feel too cosmetic-y,” she clarified. “Sometimes it’s nice to see just skin.”



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