Runway Makeup: Rag & Bone Fall 2012



style.com



“When you have a brand with a signature feeling, you kind of just go with it,” Redken creative consultant Guido Palau said backstage at Rag & Bone, referencing designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s signature style. And so, as she has in nearly every season past, the downtown cool girl reared her languid, texturized head of hair yet again. There were “Patti Smith goes to India” references being bandied about as well, but not in any kind of literal way. “She’s a traveler but she’s still rock ‘n’ roll,” Palau clarified, explaining why strands were a little bit more “dread-y” than usual thanks to Redken’s Full Frame 07 Protective Volumizing Mousse, which was slathered onto wet strands. Palau then added its Rough Paste 12 Working Material paste once the hair was dry. “It defines the texture,” he said of the sculpting product, as he set hair in twists to allow for movement.

The India component was actually Revlon artistic director Gucci Westman’s idea. “The boys were inspired by the jump in severe poverty and wealth [there],” Westman explained, which led her directly to that classic Indian beauty staple enjoyed by women of all income brackets: kohl eye liner. “I used three different eyeliners—a gel, a kohl pencil, and a liquid,” Westman said of her application technique, which relied heavily on Revlon Crème Gel Liner in Black, its Luxurious Color Eye Liner in Black, and its Liquid Liner in Blackest Black. For a slight change of pace, the face painter opted to trace the lower lid only, smudging as she went so it looked rough, “like decay.” Skin was kept “porcelain-y” thanks to a precise layering effort of a blend of skin correctors and luminizers, including the highlighter from Westman’s limited-edition shadow palette for fall in Midnight Express. To ensure that the effect was “pure and angelic,” she misted models with water as they hit the runway for an instant dewy look.

style.com

Source

Runway Makeup: Preen Fall 2012

stylebistro

The Vibe: Outdoorsy and very fresh. The models’ hair certainly looked very weathered with Aveda lead stylist Paul Hanlon creating coifs that he described as “aerodynamic” and “windblown.” To achieve these wild styles, hair was parted down the back of the head and then tied it into either one or two knots, depending on the length of the girl’s hair. Stylists added pins to keep the style secure, while loose ends and other errant hairs were blow-dried and sprayed pointing stick-straight back. To help get a matte, piece-y texture, Hanlon used two Aveda products: Phomollient, a weightless volumizing styling foam, and Pure Abundance Hair Potion, a hair-thickening cream that adds grit.

The makeup also portrayed a very active woman. “It’s a sporty kind of girl who has her blood flowing,” Gucci Westman, for Revlon, said. “She’s modern and athletic, and has good taste in clothes.” To create healthy, rosy cheeks, Westman used PhotoReady Cream Blush in Flushed (available May). For lips, it was a trio of products: Just Kissable lip crayons in Crush and Adore (both also available May) and Super Lustrous Lipstick in Mink. But the biggest statement was reserved for the brows. “The brow is a bit stronger,” said Westman as she shaded in a model’s arches using Brow Fantasty. As for the age-old pencil vs powder question, Westman has a simple response: “It varies depending on the girl’s eyebrows. When they’re more sparse, I like to use a pencil because then I can fake hairs.”



stylebistro




Source

Runway Makeup: Rag & Bone Spring 2013

style.com

“Their girl, she doesn’t do a lot with her hair,” Guido Palau said backstage of David Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s Rag & Bone woman who, truth be told, typically favors a naturally languid, bed-head look. For Spring, the story wasn’t really that different. “It’s masculine/feminine, wet/dry, nineties minimalism,” Palau explained of the slicked-back in the front, rough-dried in the back hair he conceived with the designers. A dual texture was key to the look, which the Redken creative consultant prepped with its Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam Mousse, adding a finger-combed bend with Sultra’s The Bombshell oval curling iron before coating front panels with Redken’s Hardwear 16 Super Strong Sculpting Gel.

Makeup artist Gucci Westman kept things dually natural with “raw but beautiful” skin and an “androgynous” brow. Road-testing Revlon’s forthcoming PhotoReady BB Cream for a breathable application of light, complexion-enhancing coverage, the Revlon global artistic director dabbed her new-for-Spring Baby Stick in Pink Passion, a multitasking sheer pigment, onto models’ cheeks for a barely perceptible flush. Eyes were lined with its ColorStay Eyeliner in Brown before getting a few slicks of Grow Luscious Mascara just on the top lashes, after which Westman focused her attention on arches, which were filled in and brushed up with Revlon’s Brow Fantasy pencils. Mouths were slightly stained and then moisturized with Dr. Lipp’s Original Nipple Balm for Lips.

Westman asked one specific thing of her team as the un-air-conditioned backstage area at the 34th Street post office began to swelter: “No highlights or shimmery stuff.” The objective, she explained, was to get to the heart of old black-and-white photographs of Linda and Christy. “I didn’t want it to feel too cosmetic-y,” she clarified. “Sometimes it’s nice to see just skin.”



style.com

Source

Runway Makeup: Oscar de la Renta Spring 2013

stylebistro.com

At Oscar de la Renta, Orlando Pita and Gucci Westman, global artistic director for Revlon, were both inspired by Audrey Hepburn’s Holly Golightly in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” “It’s Holly Golightly meets Keith Haring,” Pita explained as he added colored pieces of hair — blue, pink or yellow, depending on the model — and teased hair into a volumized French twist, finishing with a generous application of hair spray.

Westman wanted girls to look “naughty but nice — I wanted it to feel colorful and pretty.” Westman kept skin luminous with Revlon PhotoReady Color Correcting Primer, PhotoReady Perfecting Primer and PhotoReady Cream Blush in Flushed. Lips were the centerpiece of the look: Westman used Revlon Just Bitten Lipstain + Balm in Crave, Revlon Baby Stick for Lips and Cheeks in Pink Passion and Revlon ColorStay Ultimate Suede Lipsticks in Muse and Preview to create a suede-matte fuchsia lip. Eyes got a bit of ColorStay Eyeliner in brown, curled lashes and a swipe of Revlon Illuminance Crème Shadow in Not Just Nudes. Several girls got freckles — the eye-pencil variety.

Nails were finished with Shock, a vibrant pink; Envy, a sea green, or Flirt, a refined opal white shade. All are limited-edition shades that the designer will begin taking pre-orders for in October.

stylebistro.com

Source