“I was really nostalgic for old, elegant New York. I just wanted to feel dressed up again,” Thakoon Panichgul said last weekend, explaining his Fall collection inspiration to his go-to glam squad of hairstylist Odile Gilbert and makeup artist Diane Kendal as the group met up for the first time to discuss the beauty look for the season. And with that, each woman set to work turning his vision into reality, readying a few different hair and makeup options to try with the clothes. Gilbert went with “a modern, destroyed chignon,” treating hair with Kérastase Mousse Substantive and Double Force Hairspray to give it guts, before forming a top and bottom section. Creating a ponytail with the top half, she flipped the lengths over themselves and secured them, fashioning a short bang “as an homage to Audrey Hepburn.” Back-combing the bottom section, she made a twist that she then broke apart with her fingers, ensuring that the sides were very flat and the back was slightly disheveled. For her part, Kendal chose to zero in on the idea of a strong mouth that was “lady but eccentric.” Cue NARS Lipstick in Heatwave, a bright orange-red pigment that she topped with an electric pink powder to amp up the color and “make it more modern” with a matte finish. Needless to say, it was an easy sell. Panichgul greenlighted both looks, which made their way down the runway last night.