Runway Makeup: Jonathan Saunders Spring 2013


“Seventies disco punk” was where makeup artist Lucia Pieroni firmly placed the makeup look backstage at Jonathan Saunders, confirming our suspicions that the designer’s woman had loosened up from her more precise, uptight beginnings. “It’s the day after a big night out,” Pieroni elaborated, cuing up a requisite lived-in liner look of the day-old variety.

Giving skin a “gorgeous, dewy finish” with highlights courtesy of luminescent shades of MAC Cream Colour Base in Luna and Hush, Pieroni relied on her trusty MAC Eye Kohl in Smolder, a rich black, to rim lids, slicking on a touch of grease and smudging the line with her fingers. The pencil was also used in between lashes, instead of mascara, to enhance the undone feel. Added to this was a stamped-on bordeaux lip, which Pieroni created with a deliberate etching of MAC Lip Pencil in Burgundy, a rich wine hue that she was adamant about keeping in the center of mouths, rather than traced around the edges. “Keep [the lips] heart-shaped and perfect,” she instructed her team, adding a dollop of clear gloss in the center of pouts, right before models hit the runway.

“She’s a bit dangerous and has attitude,” Paul Hanlon elaborated, repurposing the D-word that guided him through much of the New York shows. Spritzing hair with L’Oréal Studio Matte & Messy Salt Spray through the mid-lengths, Hanlon worked the product through the ends with his fingers and a diffuser to bring a natural movement to the look. Random sections were given a gentle wave to keep them from appearing too uniform. Then, coating his hands with L’Oréal Studio Silk & Gloss Straight Cream, Hanlon swept side parts over to the left, sculpting them over one eye to add “mystery.” Elnett Diamond Hold & Shine Hairspray kept strands in place and flyaways at bay.

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