Runway Makeup: Marni Spring 2013

Consuelo Castiglioni is known by the Marni faithful for a certain way with prints. And there was plenty of that in her Spring collection today, although patterns were well paced with plenty of solids as well. “I wouldn’t call it minimal,” the desiger’s longtime face painter Tom Pecheux surmised of the wealth of white, black and color-blocking at play; “I’d call it essential”—which prompted him to take the makeup in a similar direction. “We decided [it] should be very pure,” he said.

“Pure,” in this case, did not mean bare as it has at so many other shows this season. Instead, Pecheux started each girl off with one of his signature massages—a deep-tissue rubdown with Estée Lauder Daywear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Cream and its Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator—followed by a finger-blending of MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation, which provided a “healthy, glow-y” base. “We are using our fingers to melt everything” he elaborated of the “fresh” color that was applied to cheeks using a combination of MAC Cremeblush in Posey and its red-tinged Mineralize Rich Lipstick in Lushlife. A slightly darker incarnation of the transparent rouge hue appeared on eyes as well as Pecheux smudged MAC’s Mineralize Rich Lipstick in Glamour Era, a plummy black, across lids, mixing it with its Cream Colour Base in Root, a dark brown, which he buffed into the lash line. Just the tips of lashes were treated with mascara to “tint” them before Pecheux set to creating filled-in, “creamy” brows and mouths that were stained with a layering effort of both aforementioned lipsticks.

Castiglioni gave Paul Hanlon carte blanche with the hair. “She wanted me to do my own thing,” the styling star revealed—which usually means some incarnation of a deconstructed coif with a worn-in texture and a downtown feel. This time around, it was way simpler than that. “A lot of girls that work with Consuelo wear their hair like this,” Hanlon said of the sweeping, “organic” ponytail-knot hybrids that were prepped with TIGI Bed Head Superstar Queen for A Day Thickening Spray and treated individually, rather than uniformly. To let girl’s personality shine through, nary an extension could be found at Hanlon’s station as he simply groomed Janice Alida’s newly shorn fade and effortlessly brushed Athena Wilson’s bowl cut to one side.



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