Runway Makeup: Dolce and Gabbana Spring 2013


Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s ever-present homage to their native Sicily makes for a reliably gorgeous hair and makeup look, as there’s not much that can top the southern Italian island’s reputation for classic, sexy beauty. “It’s Sicilian summertime,” Pat McGrath said of her specific direction for Spring, which meant a pink, rose, and apricot flush paired with an elongated eye. “There’s nothing heavy,” she emphasized. “It’s about shape, glow, and perfect skin.”

Creating a base with Dolce & Gabbana The Makeup Luminous Liquid Foundation, McGrath indulged in some blush—three of them to be exact, in Sole, Mocha, and Apricot—which she swept across cheekbones and up toward the temple for a warm radiance. “[The designers] also showed me this fab picture from Avedon,” she said, motioning to a black-and-white fifties-era glamour shot that hung from a mirror and prompted her to draw on “a more modern version” of a cat-eye that was extended from upper and lower lash lines that had been completely rimmed using a combination of Dolce & Gabbana’s Crayon Intense Eyeliner in Chocolate and its Khol Pencil in True Black. “Use the pencil first,” McGrath advised for achieving the perfect flick, which she initially drew on with the Khol Pencil and then retraced with its liquid Glam Liner in Black Intense for added opacity and drama. Lids received a dusting of pale gold shadow from Dolce & Gabbana’s Eyeshadow Quad in Desert before McGrath dabbed its Classic Cream Lipsticks in Chocolate and Iconic onto mouths, blotting with her fingers as she went to leave a faint wine stain that was slightly darker around the cupid’s bow. “There’s a lot of bold colors in the collection,” she explained; no need to overdo it on the face.

“Dolce really understands the beauty of a woman,” Guido Palau effused as he added to the narrative with an “updo,” as he called it. “It’s not really a twist or a knot,” he insisted of the folded and pinned coif that was decorated with 79 different silk scarves, one for each model that walked in the show. “There’s a lightness and desirability,” he continued of strands that were rough-dried with Redken Aerate 08 Bodifying Cream Mousse and meant to resemble “how a Sicilian woman would just tie her hair up in a scarf.” As Josephine Skriver held her printed accessory close to her head, Palau tied it at the nape of the neck and slightly askew, making sure the hairline was visible. “The rough texture makes it softer and more feminine,” he said, offering up a few pointers for proper scarf-wearing, including this one: “Make sure it’s touching the ears,” he added, positioning the crisp fabric accordingly. “That helps loosen the idea.”




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