Runway Makeup: Burberry Prorsum Fall 2012

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Surprisingly, no one backstage at Burberry mentioned anything about this season’s town and country girl needing waterproof makeup for when she heads to the Cotswolds. Maybe it was because she’ll have an umbrella like those carried by the models at the close of the show — post-artificial rainstorm. Both the makeup artist Wendy Rowe and the hairstylist Neil Moodie made references to a city woman escaping to nature, weather not withstanding, as the muse for the look. “It’s the girl who leaves town and doesn’t mind getting her hands dirty,” Rowe said. She created a smoky effect using Burberry’s Sable shadow and a flat brush between lashes. Mulberry and shimmery Midnight Brown were applied lightly around the lid and Gold Trench under the eye. Number 3 concealer was dotted on the inner corner of the eye socket and cheekbones were sculptured with Earthy blush. Lips were primed with foundation and then either Sepia Pink or Mocha Glow tapped on with a finger. “A dark sumptuous eye,” said Rowe of the overall effect, stressing it not be too heavy or perfect, lest it not feel modern. Moodie described hair as a three-day-old blow-dry with “dropped out” curls. He used Bumble and Bumble Prep Spray and Thickening Spray spread from the middle of wet hair, through the ends before diffusing for natural texture. A large-barrel curling iron was then applied randomly throughout the hair and Brilliantine applied to the mussed-up ends.



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Runway Makeup: Ruffian Spring 2013

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It’s only day three of New York Fashion Week and the trends are already building up. Yesterday at Rag & Bone, Global Artistic Director for Revlon and Fashion Week veteran, Gucci Westman, opted for bold brows as a major focal point of the makeup look. Now, it looks as though James Kaliardos got the statement arches memo. Backstage at Ruffian, James led the MAC Cosmetics team to create a look inspired by “a Bouchet painting from the eighteenth century and Williamsburg hipsters.” The models wore a soft gray shadow on the lid and plenty of contour on the cheeks to compliment the brows. The lips were painted with none other than two shades of MAC Ruffian Lipstick from the collaboration between the design house and makeup brand. Most of the models wore Ruffian Naked, while just a few models wore Ruffian Red.

Over in the hair department, Neil Moodie and his team of Bumble and Bumble stylists created a cool, rockabilly coif that meshed with the “couture meets street” collection perfectly. He started out by layering Bumble and Bumble Prep Spray and Styling Cream from roots to ends and power drying “so hair is a little matted and textured.” To create the fun pompadour, Neil dried the hair with a large bristle brush to get some height and back-combed the bangs for that rock and roll look. He stayed away from blowing it all the way through so hair isn’t too smooth at the ends. The sides were sleek so the pouf received all the attention.

Our favorite part of the look was definitely the nails created by Keri Blair for MAC Cosmetics. Models wore pink, blue, yellow, or white polish with nail “jewelry” on the ring and pinky nails. Keri glued small, gold filigree right on top of the color. “I actually sat and hand bent each filigree to fit the nail bed,” said Keri. “It took me two hours.” Just don’t go searching for the nail colors yet. The four shades with a subtle reflection are a new texture MAC is testing out. “We are hoping that they come to life at some point,” said Keri. Us, too!



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Runway Makeup: Burberry Prorsum Spring 2013

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The excitement level backstage at Burberry kicked up a few notches when Wendy Rowe picked up a bullet of red lipstick. It was as though time stopped, except for the singular, slow-motion movement of the makeup artist grabbing Burberry’s Lipstick in Siren, moving it ever closer to Constance Jablonski’s mouth. After many years of loyalty to an all-natural, earth-tone-only makeup palette, it appeared as though Christopher Bailey had decided to make a bold beauty move. “We’re doing a Norman Parkinson woman,” Rowe revealed. “She’s retro but also modern and has a definite forties look about her.”

The crimson pout was the focal point of the look, and Rowe ensured it wasn’t too done. “It needs to look sassy and sexy,” she insisted, applying the creamy scarlet pigment with a brush and blotting it as she went. “[The Burberry woman] is a bit cheeky and flirty this season,” Rowe continued, blending in the brand’s new-for-spring Fresh Glow Foundation, which she dotted with its forthcoming Illuminator.

“Natural and definitely not too glamorous” were the house codes that Neil Moodie abided by when it came to the hair, which he prepped with Bumble and Bumble Does It All Styling Spray and gave an off-kilter center part. Running a few sections through a curling iron to create movement through the lengths, Moodie finished things off with a touch of Bumble and Bumble Brilliantine on the ends of the hair for the appearance of a healthy, moisturized mane—wear and tear from almost two weeks of back-to-back shows not withstanding.

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