Runway Makeup: Richard Chai Love Spring 2013

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With New York Fashion Week under way, we can’t wait to see what trends will be hitting the runways to inspire us for the Spring/Summer 2013 season. James Kaliardos, the key artist for MAC Cosmetics who led the team at Richard Chai Love, said that he hoped to see stronger colors on the eyes this season — and we couldn’t agree more.

For the look for Richard Chai’s show, he created a “soft, 60s eye with clean sporty skin.” Using a new MAC Fluidline Liner in “dirty blonde” that he described as “brow-friendly” he created a very graphic, 60s line in the crease of the eye and a “floating line” on the top, so that the liner wasn’t quite hitting the eyelashes but floating around the shape of the eye. He noted that he liked the idea that it wasn’t a black shadow, making the look a bit softer. For the “sporty skin” Kaliardos created a “perfect” base using foundation and concealer where needed, but noted that the look for spring is subtle and sheer — you don’t want to layer on the makeup. To finish the makeup look, he used MAC lip conditioner and a bit of Dim Lip Erase to “beige out” the lip look.

On the hair, Kevin Ryan led the team for Aveda, stating that the look was “fairly streamlined with a sporty feel.” The look was a simple yet sleek, something that could easily be pulled off on the streets. Each boy and girl had a deep part that was put “in the wrong place” and moved around so that the look wasn’t too retro or too modern. Ryan combined a mixture of gel and Brilliant spray to give the hair a shiny look (and stay in place) and slicked it back.

To complete the looks, the nails were polished with Julep’s Sienna gold polish and a matte top coat, giving them a texture that you couldn’t quite place, yet complimenting all of the pale neutrals in Richard Chai’s line.



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Runway Makeup: Rebecca Taylor Spring 2013

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Pack your bags, because Rebecca Taylor is taking you on a beach road trip. Inspired by a girl just stepping off a deserted beach, the look had us longing for a Summer that isn’t even quite over yet.

The look: Windswept hair, metallic nails, and bronzed cheeks
The inspiration: A long road-trip vacation
Who would wear it: A surfer babe headed to her next beach

Sil Bruinsma, key makeup artist for MAC, wanted the focus to be on the eyes. "It's a sultry look but not too made up," he said. To achieve the look, he kept the face colors matte but warm and used just a swipe of lip balm on the lips.
Bruinsma kept the brows natural and the eye colors monochromatic. He smudged MAC's Twink eye shadow ($18) on the entire top of the lash and along the outer lower lash line. He then used MAC's Teddy Kohl Eyeliner ($15) to line the eyes. "It's all a little smudged and not too perfect," he explained.

MAC tapped Marian Newman, a London-based nail artist, to do the nail design for the show. She used a metallic silver color for the nails. Just one coat of MAC Screaming Bright ($16) did the trick — not even a top coat was used. "One coat covers everything," she said.

The hair is where things got crazy. Aveda stylists Kevin Ryan and Frank Rizzieri were calling the look "Road Trip" backstage. They started by blow-drying the hair for lots of volume.
Once the hair was big, Ryan and RIzzieri used a flat iron to add some bend. "It's like rolling the dice when you do this," Ryan said. "Each girl's hair is going to look a little different. It's a celebration of the individual."
To finish, Ryan used a technique that he called his "'80s move": he blow-dried hair spray into the hair to add extra volume, extra hold, and "a lot of wind," as he said. "It's like you've got the roof off the car in the Summer," he said. "Like you're on vacation!"



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Runway Makeup: Nicole Miller Spring 2013

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James Kaliardos, for MAC, was inspired by technology and nature for the beauty look at Nicole Miller. The focal point was the eye, a “soft smoky” blend of four purple shades from MAC’s Spoiled Rich palette — launching in the spring — housed in “Archie”-comics-inspired packaging. “I’m trying to restrain myself this season,” said Kaliardos, who used Haute & Naughty Too Black on lashes. “I’m using color in a natural way.” To give skin contour and highlight, he utilized Prep + Prime Highlighter pens, Taupe Shape Blush, new for spring, and Mineralize Moisture SPF 15 Foundation, which launches in fall 2013. Lips were kept neutral, with Posh Tone Mineralize Lipstick, also new for fall 2013.

Hair was kept “futuristic and modern,” with a feeling of “things moving faster,” according to the lead stylist, Kevin Ryan, who parted hair in the center, then applied Aveda Volumizing Tonic before infusing two tight “Avatar”-referencing fishtails, which Ryan said “feel like zippers.” Hair that “wanted to fall” was pinned back, and the remaining style was straightened and left to fall along the neckline. “It’s a nod to graphics,” said Ryan, who used tiny black elastics from Ricky’s NYC to hold his intricate braids.

Nails were given a “galaxy glam manicure” by Candice Manacchio, lead artist of CND. Inspired by Eighties sci-fi geometric shapes and diamond patterns, Manacchio created a customized mint shade, which referenced Miller’s spring collection. That shade was given a holographic coating of Sapphire Sparkle effects polish, and white “stars” were added with a detail brush. The inverted diamond — created by uniting two French-manicure Vs — featured Black Jack and supershiny Air Dry topcoat. Manacchio said it took 40 hours to make the 22 sets used for the show.



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