Runway Makeup: Michael Kors Fall 2012

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A “classic, sportif” look with flushed cheeks and bright lips was created by Dick Page, Shiseido Artistic Director, for Michael Kors A/W 2012 collection.

“The connotation of sportif in Europe is energetic and the look is all about the woman who’s living this life, who’s very chic and made of money.”

Face
The Michael Kors face featured a “bloody, wonky flush”. Dick started this look with a clean, well-moisturized base and applied a wash of Radiant Lifting Foundation (launching Fall 2012) to remove any redness or imperfections.

To create a chevron-shaped flush on cheeks, Dick blended Lacquer Rouge in Drama (RD501), a lipstick with concentrated color, onto the apple of the cheek, along with a dab of foundation using a damp Foundation Sponge Puff.

Eyes
The eyes were given a “transparent, easy, flexible” treatment that resulted in a “very chic,” shimmery, wearable look for day or night.

To create weight in the brow, Dick mixed a blend customized to each model’s natural brow color using Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable (BR709), Meadow (BE204), Caviar (BK912), and Leather (BR306). Using a shadow fluff brush, Dick blended Luminizing Satin Face Color Soft Beam Gold (BE206) and High Beam White (WT905) and applied the color to the inner corner of the eye, blending out over the entire lid. (Tip: when mixing color, use a bit more of the High Beam White shade to keep the blend bright.) He then curled the lashes to give them a soft, natural bend, walking the curler up the lashes to avoid a “crimped” look, and finished with Perfect Mascara Full Definition in Black (BK901) on just the upper lashes.

Lips
Red lips on the Michael Kors runway felt very “winter,” emulating “après ski and sex” — an approach fitting for the confident Kors woman.

Dick first took down the natural lip color using a bit of foundation. Then he applied Lacquer Rouge in Drama (RD501) to the entire lip in a defined, precise manner. He blotted with tissue and reapplied three times in order to set the color.

“It’s more like après-sex,” Shiseido artistic director Dick Page interjected, using the brand’s forthcoming Lacquer Rouge in Drama, a deep crimson, to coat lips and blend a creamy flush from the apples of models’ cheeks all the way down to the jaw, “the way you’d get if you were cold, or hot, or excited,” Page explained. Shiseido’s Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold and High Beam White dusted along lids and cheekbones added a transparent glow. “Blush makes everyone look better,” the face painter surmised. “It’s a very simple way to look and feel glamorous.”

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Runway Makeup: Michael Kors Spring 2013

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A Sixties-via-the-Nineties vibe characterized the beauty at Michael Kors. Dick Page, Shiseido’s artistic director, focused on adding “a pop of color” to the eyes with a face that was otherwise soft and subtle. He began by applying Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold and High Beam White to create lightness on the eyelid, upper cheek and under-eye area. Next, using a soft fluff brush, he created what he called “a floating graphic arc” along the natural shape of the lid — in turquoise for blondes and redheads, green for brunettes. The upper lash line got a trace of white, followed by Luminizing Satin Face Color in High Beam White and a light coat of Perfect Mascara Full Definition in black. Brows were emphasized using Shimmering Cream Eye Color in a shade appropriate for each girl. Lips were finished with Perfect Rouge in Vision, a pale nudish-pink.

Orlando Pita did a deep side part and swept hair across the head, using elastic bungee fasteners to create two small sections of hair that then were covered with another panel of hair and secured with a thin barrette.



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