Runway Makeup: 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2012

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There’s detail oriented, and then there’s Phillip Lim. “I’m really hands-on,” Lim admitted last weekend when he summoned longtime collaborators, Nars brand ambassador Francelle Daly and hair stylist Odile Gilbert to his studio to talk beauty for his Fall collection. The meeting of the minds was truly something to behold: Lim took Daly and Gilbert through his designs piece by piece, shared his “neo-noir” inspiration with them presenting a Roy Lichtenstein photo as a starting off point for the makeup, and then sent them on their way to “search for magic,” as Gilbert eloquently put it. And the magic came…slowly. At fist, there was too much red in the “superhero” eyes Daly drew onto lids using NARS Lip Liner in Jungle Red and its Eyeliner Stylo in Nuits Blanches, which she dotted with a “special effect” in the form of its Triple X Gloss for an illustration-caliber shine. And the hair? Well, the hair vacillated between too soft and too sleek, until Lim actually took out a pen and a marker and drew the shape he was after. “I don’t speak the language [of beauty] so sometimes the only way to get there is to paint a picture,” he explained. When everything was said and done, Daly had used almost an entire tube of NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara, which she had slicked onto custom-cut fake lashes, and Gilbert won Lim over with a texturized updo that she prepped with Kérastase Mousse Substantive and then fashioned into a curled under faux bob on one side with a long, straight section hanging down in the back—for the short term at least. When we arrived backstage at Lim’s show yesterday, he asked her to change the look one last time. “I had to do all 42 girls, in 45 minutes,” Gilbert exclaimed after the presentation. Magic, indeed. Above, watch the process unfold in real time.



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Runway Makeup: 3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2013

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Backstage at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the models all looked like “one big girl band.” The look was rock and roll, yet sophisticated. Francelle for NARS Cosmetics created a cool, modern take on grungy makeup complete with ten to 12 coats of mascara.

The collection was filled with embellishments, plaid, floral, and even ‘I Love NY’ T-shirts. Francelle was inspired by all these factors. “All of a sudden, I went towards my high school days as me being a grunge girl with my flannel T-shirt and black eye liner and mascara. But I wanted to do a very modern take on that,” said Francelle. “I wanted to duplicate a look as if these girls are playing at Coachella. They are kind of sun-kissed, but have an edgy, bold black mascara eye.”

To get the chunky mascara look, Francelle began by applying two coats of Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara and then curling the lashes. Once that dried, she went back and started clumping the lashes together and caking on mascara. She added a tiny bit of pink eyeshadow from the Bouthan Duo Eyeshadow (new for spring 2013) just for depth. For the face, she applied Casino Bronzing Powder on the apples of the cheeks and the bridge of the nose. “I left the forehead and chin bare because I didn’t want too much of a finished look,” said Francelle. She finished off the look with Biscayne Park Satin Lip Pencil (a cross between a lipstick and a lipgloss – new for spring 2013). The lip color was too shiny for her liking, so she matted it out with pressed powder.

If you want to recreate the look at home, Francelle recommends dialing down the amount of mascara and concentrating on clumping the lashes together with only a few coats. If you don’t like black, try a colored mascara. “What’s so great about Fashion Week is that people can gather their own inspiration and have their own take on that – that’s always inspiring to me,” she added.

The modern grunge makeup looked extra cool with big, teased hair created by Paul Hanlon for Fekkai and nails by Michelle Saunders for Essie who painted half of each nail with Essie Chinchilly and the other half with Brooch the Subject.



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