10/19/12

Runway Makeup: Helmut Lang Spring 2013




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Spring 2013 is all about bright eyes and even brighter ensembles for Kate Spade! Known for her cheerful designs, Spade’s spring 2013 line was jam-packed with bold color in feminine hues, with a lively beauty look to match. We went backstage to get the complete breakdown — from hair to nails — so you can try your hand at creating the couture look at home! And if you’re intimidated by the winged-out teal shadow, makeup artist Neil Scibelli, who created the edgy makeup, offers a tip: “The look is totally wearable if you pair it with something funky, and just be confident in it!”

The Makeup

"We're doing all sorts of fun electric blues and mint greens, winged out to the end of the eyes," said Scibelli, who used Jouer products. "We went for a super rocker chic feel, while still keeping it classic." Mission accomplished!

For the day-glo eyes, Scibelli layered on a white eyeliner before sweeping on an electric blue shadow. "The white really ties in with the collection. There are pops of white in the polka dots and the nails, so we wanted to accentuate that on the eyes," he said. "It looks very cool when paired with such a shocking eye color as well." Jouer's Cheek and Lip Tint in Peony ($20; jouercosmetics.com) and the Luminizing Moisture Tint ($38; jouercosmetics.com) gave models a lit-from-within glow, and a combination of Jouer's Hydrating Lipstick in Olivia (available spring 2013) and the Lip Enhancer ($14; jouercosmetics.com) provided the finishing touch.

The Hair

"We went for a rockabilly, retro feel with a fun, Gwen Stefani vibe," said hairstylist Tommy Buckett for Garnier. "The collection is very colorful, so we wanted to go with that feeling."
Buckett created the retro curl by spiraling hair around his fingers and secured it with a hair pin. He then backcombed roots with a bristle brush, like Mason Pearson's ($190; nordstrom.com), then used it to smooth over the volume before fastening the rest of the hair into a ponytail. The mirror-like shine is all thanks to a few drops of Garnier's Moroccan Sleek Oil ($6; drugstore.com), and a mist of the Serum Spray ($6; drugstore.com) along the sides of the head gave the style a sleek finish.

The Manicure

Last but certainly not least, nails were formed into stiletto-shaped talons and adorned with a gingham print. "Since there was a lot of gingham in the clothes, we started playing with the idea of doing a nail in the same print," said Deborah Lippmann, who created the look. "We tried to really replicate the Kate Spade fabric into the nail."

Lippmann began by lacquering on a solid base coat of the white Amazing Grace ($16; deborahlippmann.com), then painted the gingham print using Lara's Theme ($16; deborahlippmann.com). She also used the pink and yellow hues from her neon lacquer kit ($45 for five nail polishes; deborahlippmann.com) and the yet-to-be-released My Prerogative ($25 for three; deborahlippmann.com), a true midnight navy. "You can use strips of tape to get the straight lines," Lippmann suggested. "Just be sure to let the first coat dry completely before sticking the tape to your nail."




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