Runway Makeup: Creatures of the Wind Spring 2013


James Boehmer, Nars’ global director of artistry, was inspired by the idea of “opposing forces” — a theme for Creatures’ spring collection — for the beauty look he created. To complement the line, which Boehmer called “tailored, constructed” and “immaculately detailed,” he wanted to make sure the models didn’t feel too prim. Inspired also by Japanese Godzilla movies and manga comics, Boehmer set out to create “a strong powerful woman who feels real,” yet had a feeling of fantasy.

“It’s the idea of monstrous beauty,” said Boehmer. “It’s a hot girl on the edge of punk.” Boehmer created a “cranberry matte, smudged, transparent eye” with Nars lipstick and featured an “aggressive” silver pencil liner on the bottom of the eyes to open them. Skin — on which Nars tinted moisturizer was applied — was kept “glowing and radiant” and given a “lit-from-within effect.” Lips were also given an effect, rather than a color, according to Boehmer, who described the pout he fashioned as one that looks like “you’ve bitten your lip, or someone else has. It’s slightly chapped and looks like you’ve been making out.” Mascara was used on both top and bottom lashes to finish things off.

Also taking a cue from Japanese culture, Kérastase’s Odile Gilbert gave the illusion of chopping hair by using an “origami technique,” which forwent the use of scissors. The look, which provided each model with bangs and shorter, straightened hair sections in the front and longer pieces in the back and on the sides, required “a lot of product,” according to Gilbert, who used a cocktail of Kérastase’s Double Force Hair Spray, Nectar Thermique and Elixir Ultime Thé Imperial throughout the style. Because treatment oils were used in the look, Gilbert said, “When the show is finished, [models] have better hair than when they started.” To achieve the cut-hair effect, Gilbert crossed hair and pinned it on top of itself, folding pieces one on top of the other from the side to the back and from the back to the front, she said. “It’s cutting hair without cutting hair,” said Gilbert, who also used a straightening iron on the look. Each model was then fastened with a delicate hair net — black for those with darker hair and nude for blondes — which was tied around their necks. Excess hair was straightened and left to hang out of the net along the nape of the neck.



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